Ride-Way Auto Service | Auto Repair Santa Clarita, Transmission, Brakes, Oil Change, Wheel Alignment

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Jeremy McRae

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Heat, Not Cold, Shortens Battery Life

Here’s a hot tip about car batteries: Warm weather is the time for major car-battery problems. Heat, not cold, shortens battery life, says the Car Care Council. The average life of a battery is three and a half years, and even shorter in warmer climates.

Excessive heat and overcharging are the two main reasons for shortened battery life. Heat causes battery fluid to evaporate, which damages the internal structure of the battery. A malfunctioning component in the charging system, usually the voltage regulator, allows too high a charging rate. That can mean a slow death for a battery.

Statistics from the National Car Care Month inspection campaign show battery cables, clamps and terminals needed maintenance in 13 percent of the vehicles and seven percent of the batteries were not properly held down.

To get the most life out of a battery, the Car Care Council suggests the following:
•Be sure the electrical system is charging at the correct rate; overcharging can damage a battery as quickly as undercharging.

•If your battery is the type that needs to be topped off, check it regularly, especially in hot weather. Add distilled water when necessary.

•Always replace a battery with one that’s rated at least as high as the one originally specified.

•Keep the top of the battery clean. Dirt becomes a conductor, which drains battery power. Further, as corrosion accumulates on battery terminals it becomes an insulator, inhibiting current flow.

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7 Car-Maintenance Myths

Written By: Stephen Mraz

Here are seven widespread myths on auto upkeep you shouldn’t blindly follow:

Myth: Engine oil should be changed every 3,000 miles. Wrong. Follow the advice in the owner’s manual and ignore the self-serving pleas from oil companies and quick-lube shops. Under normal driving conditions, most vehicles can travel 7,500 miles or more between oil changes. Changing oil more often certainly won’t harm an engine, just waste money. But if you do a lot of stop-and-go driving, trailer-towing, or traveling through mountainous or dusty areas, 3,000 miles between oil changes is a good idea.

Myth: Flush the coolant with every oil change. Most owner manuals recommend changing the coolant every five years or 60,000 miles. But check for a leak if the coolant reservoir is low despite repeatedly topping it off.

Myth: Inflate tires to the pressure shown on the tire’s sidewall. The psi figure on the side of the tire is the maximum pressure the tire will hold safely. If you’re looking for the automaker’s recommended pressure that balances braking, handling, gas mileage, and ride comfort, it’s usually on a sticker on the driver-side doorjamb, in the glove box, or on the fuel-filler door.

Myth: If regular-grade fuel is good, premium must be better. Another expensive mistake. Most vehicles run fine on regular-grade fuel (87 octane). Filling these cars with premium won’t cause damage, but it won’t improve performance, either. Higher-octane fuels are less likely to create pre-ignition problems, so they’re usually used in hotter-running, high-compression engines.

Myth: Warm up your car for several minutes before driving. Outdated advice. Driving the car is the fastest way to warm up a modern engine, and the sooner it warms up, the sooner it delivers the best mileage and performance. And don’t rev the engine during the first few miles.

Myth: Wash your car with dishwashing or laundry detergent. No, not really. Detergents strip off a car’s wax finish. Pay a little extra and stick with the car-wash liquid, which cleans without removing wax.

Myth: A battery will recharge after a jump start in only a few minutes of driving. Not even close. It can take hours of driving to give the battery a full charge, especially in the winter. Heated seats, music systems, and other accessories draw so much power that the alternator has little left to recharge the battery. You can check to see if the battery will still hold a charge by having a load test at a gas station. If it can, several hours may be needed on a battery charger to give the battery a full charge.

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How to Get Better Gas Mileage

Many people think that in order to get better gas mileage in a car or truck, they need to go buy some fuel additive... or put some special magnets on their fuel lines... or install some "magic" fuel mileage booster device into their car.

This is all false. Products that make claims about better fuel economy are almost all scams. Don't fall for it. Keep reading to find out what really works to help you get more miles out of your fuel.

It is TRUE that improving your gas mileage is one of the easiest thing to accomplish. When it comes to getting more miles to the gallon, the key is to change the way you drive and use your vehicle. You don't need any special additive, chemical or device. You won't even have to spend a cent.

Best Ways to Get Better Gas Mileage

1. Avoid Hard Acceleration and Braking

Every time you step on the gas pedal it puts more fuel into the engine. If you speed up suddenly, it uses more so it's best to accelerate slowly when possible. Many times I see people speed away from traffic lights only to slam on their brakes at the next red light. This is very bad for fuel mileage, not mention that it's dangerous as well.

2. Keep Your Driving Speed Below 60 MPH

If you want to get more miles per gallon SLOW DOWN. This is probably the most effective way to get better gas mileage for the average driver. Many people travel too fast and lose fuel economy because of it.

3. Turn Off Your Engines When Not in Use

Excessive engine idling wastes gas - If you plan to be stop for a few minutes or more then turn the engine off. You're burning fuel when your car is sitting idle with the engine running.

4. Keep Your Vehicle Well Maintained

While regular vehicle maintenance is very important, it is probably not the most effective way to get better gas mileage. This does not mean that you should just neglect your car or truck. The best thing to do is follow the factory maintenance schedule found in your owner's manual.

I have heard of people who "overmaintain" their cars to the point that it becomes a waste of money. It does not do any good to change your air filter every month or two. For optimal gas saving, it is best to stick with the maintenance schedule in your owner's manual.

Do Mileage Booster Products Work?

As a professional mechanic, I do not know of ANY product that will improve fuel mileage to the point that it is worth buying.

I have seen all kinds of products including magnets, mileage boosters, engine oil, stickers, weird chemicals, etc. that all claim to improve fuel economy. Many of them even claim to have been tested by "independent third parties", but I have never seen that work well enough for me to buy them.

The best thing you can do is NOT BUY THEM. Just like there is no way to "get rich quick," there is no way to "increase fuel mileage by 20%" quick. The only proven ways to get better gas mileage is to follow my advice above.

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When Should You Change Your Oil?

Written By: Ronald Montoya

It's not 3,000 miles.

If you are one of the many people who let a windshield reminder sticker govern when they get an oil change, here's our advice to you: Drop that habit. Instead, follow the automaker's recommended service intervals. In many modern cars, your best bet is to rely on the vehicle's oil life monitoring system to let you know when it's time for a change.

Let the Manual Guide You
Oil change information is in the maintenance chapter of your owner's manual. If for some reason you've misplaced your owner's manual, many automakers have put their manuals online. 

In many instances, you'll find that the owner's manual lists two service schedules. These are based on "normal" and "severe" or "special" driving conditions. Read the descriptions carefully to see which schedule reflects how you drive. In our experience, the vast majority of people fall into the normal schedule.

Trust Your Oil Life Monitor
In recent years, a number of automakers have installed oil life monitors of varying complexity in their vehicles. The more basic versions are more maintenance minders than actual systems. They're based on mileage, and switch on a maintenance light when the vehicle hits a predetermined mileage range.

The more advanced oil life monitors, on the other hand, constantly take information from numerous sensors throughout the vehicle and then use a complex algorithm to predict the life of your oil. Based on your driving conditions and habits, the frequency of your oil changes can vary.

These systems take the guesswork out of knowing when your next service is due. Just drive as you normally would and wait until the maintenance light comes on. You'll be surprised to see how far a vehicle can go between oil changes. The hardest part is not letting your preconceived notions of oil change intervals second-guess the monitor.

It's also important to note that these systems are calibrated to work with the factory-recommended oil. They aren't sophisticated enough to recognize that you've upgraded to another blend, so save your money and stick to the factory fill.

Use the Time Estimate
If you have a weekend car or put very low miles on your vehicle, you'll have to change your maintenance strategy a bit. Robert Sutherland, principal scientist at Pennzoil Passenger Car Engine Lubricants, says that over time, oil becomes contaminated by gases that blow by the pistons, and the longer the oil sits with that contamination, the more it degrades.

Whether an automaker uses an oil life monitor or set mileage intervals, all of them also prescribe a maximum time frame for an oil change. For example, the 2010 Toyota Prius has a recommended oil interval of one year or 10,000 miles — whichever comes first. Since some oil life monitors are more sophisticated than others, the vehicles that employ them will have different time recommendations. You'll also find this information in your owner's manual.

Get an Oil Analysis
The issue of what constitutes "normal" versus "severe" driving has long been a point of contention among vehicle owners, mechanics and dealership service departments. All have their own motivations for their recommendations. But the best way to determine how you drive your vehicle is to get your oil analyzed.

An oil analysis will tell you the condition of your oil, and it also can reveal any problems that your engine may be experiencing. Some sample tests can show traces of fuel and coolant in the engine oil, which are early signs of engine problems. When you get your results back from the lab, you'll also get a recommendation on how much further you can go between oil changes.

Extended-Life Oils: It's Safe To Switch
Many oil companies are releasing extended-life oils that are guaranteed for the specific mileage listed on the bottle. Mobil's most advanced fully synthetic product, Mobil 1 Extended Performance, for instance, is guaranteed for 15,000 miles. The company recommends it for vehicles that are beyond their warranty period. This is an important point because many automakers will void your warranty if you do not follow their recommended service intervals.

Owners who change their oil themselves and are looking to extend the time between oil changes can safely switch to a 15,000-mile oil and make a lot fewer trips to the mechanic. They also should switch to a high-mileage oil filter, since the factory filter wasn't designed for extended intervals.

By going to an extended-life product, older vehicles, such as a 1998 Ford Mustang — which calls for oil changes every 5,000 miles — could cut back from three changes per year to just one.

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True Cost of Not Maintaining Your Car

Written By: Margarette Burnette

People on tight budgets are often tempted to skip some routine car maintenance services, or at least to delay an appointment with the auto shop.

However, poorly maintained vehicles cause thousands of wrecks each year. The bill for accidents resulting from unperformed vehicle maintenance tops $2 billion a year, according to a 2004 study by Car Care Council, an advocacy group based in Bethesda, Md.

Even if you are lucky enough to avoid a crash, putting off maintenance is likely to reduce your car's life span.

"If you don't maintain your car, you're taking a vehicle that might have been driven for 200,000 miles over its life, and you're knocking it down to maybe 150,000 miles," says Philip Reed, senior consumer advice editor at Edmunds.com.

The true cost of not maintaining your vehicle can include hefty repair bills for bad brakes, failed emissions tests and maybe even a failed engine. Following is a list of some common maintenance requirements for automobiles and the costly problems that can occur if they aren't completed.

1. Consistent oil changes

Regular oil changes help keep your engine clean and lubricated, says Deanna Sclar, author of "Auto Repair for Dummies."

"Oil cuts down on the friction that can literally wear away the parts of the engine," she says. "One of the most important maintenance-related things you can do is change your oil frequently."

There is some debate about how often drivers should change their oil. Many car experts recommend getting the work done every 3,000 miles or three months, especially if you often drive in stop-and-go traffic or your car idles for long periods of time.

However, some car manufacturers recommend longer intervals between oil changes. The safest advice is to follow the manufacturer's recommendations for your specific car.

"The definitive answer is to check your owner's manual," says Vyvyan Lynn, author of "The Complete Idiot's Guide to Auto Repair."

"Few people read their owner's guide, but it's golden."

Cost of skipping: Potential engine failure.

2. Tire rotations, air pressure checks and tire alignment

Rotating tires -- switching the tire position from front to rear and vice versa -- helps them wear equally. A tire rotation should generally be done every 6,000 miles, or as often as the car manufacturer recommends.

In addition to having tires rotated, check to make sure tires are properly inflated at the pressure specified in the owner's manual. This prevents unnecessary wear and helps extend tire life.

"It costs barely anything to make sure your tires are properly inflated, and air is practically free," says Steven Eppinger, president and CEO of Ownersite.com, a website that helps car owners track their maintenance histories. Keeping your tires properly inflated will get you better gas mileage, Eppinger says. And with gas prices around $3.50 in some places, savings can add up quickly.

The Car Care Council also recommends getting your car's wheel alignment checked once a year. An alignment adjusts your vehicle's steering and suspension so that it's in line with your car manufacturer's specifications.

Cost of skipping: Excessive tire wear and poor gas mileage.

3. Replace timing belt at recommended intervals

Not all vehicles use timing belts, but many of today's engines do. Your car manual will tell you whether your car has one, and if so, when it needs to be replaced. The Car Care Council says that timing belts are typically replaced between 60,000 and 90,000 miles, but check your owner's manual for your car's recommendation.

If the timing belt fails, the engine will stop and the car will coast to a stop, according to the Car Care Council. A lucky motorist will only require a belt repair. An unlucky one could suffer severe engine damage.

"I'm dealing with a situation where a customer drove their car for 90,000 miles without ever having the timing belt replaced, even though the car manufacturer suggested changing it at the 60,000 mile mark," says Eric Currin, a mechanic in Georgia.

"The timing belt slipped in three places. The car cut off. When the customer tried to restart the car, they bent several valves. So what would have been a $600 job to replace the timing belt has turned out to be a $2,000 job to replace the belt, valves and other related parts."

Cost of skipping: Damaged valves and pistons.

4. Annual brake checkup

Brake disc pads and shoes eventually wear down. Checking your brakes annually allows you to plan ahead and know when it's time to replace them. By contrast, neglecting regular brake work could eventually lead to more costly rotor or drum replacements.

"If you ignore your brakes, then you'll just continue to wear down your discs (the friction part of the brakes that wear with normal driving)," says Reed. "If the discs go down metal to metal, you could gouge your rotors. Then, what would have been a $150 brake job (to replace discs) could turn into a $300 brake job to replace rotors."

Brake inspections can also help a technician identify a problem that doesn't involve brake disc pads at all.

"There could be a lack of brake fluid or a leak in the master cylinder that's under the hood," says Sclar.

You might never know unless you have the brakes checked.

Cost of skipping: Expensive rotor or drum replacement.

5. Replacing PCV valve regularly

The positive crankcase ventilation, or PCV, system helps regulate the flow of fumes around the engine. It includes hoses as well as a PCV valve, which should be replaced at recommended intervals.

"The PCV valve helps protect the seals and gaskets on an engine. It keeps them from getting corroded and cracked, which can cause oil to leak," says Currin. "The cost for a replacement PCV valve is just a few dollars, plus a minimal cost of labor to install it. But if you don't get it replaced when necessary, the seals could leak.

"If you do have a leak, it costs over a hundred bucks to replace a valve cover gasket. If it gets really bad and the head gasket starts to leak, you could be faced with thousands of dollars for repair bills."

Cost of skipping: Leaking head gasket, failed emissions test.

6. Changing spark plugs and filters

Do you live in a state that requires your car to pass an emissions test? If so, failing to maintain your car could lead to a huge repair bill to bring the vehicle into compliance.

"The average repair bill is somewhere between $335 to $350 to fix a problem that causes an emissions test to fail," says Rich Parlontieri, CEO of Speedemissions, a vehicle emissions testing/safety inspection company with emissions testing locations in St. Louis, Salt Lake City, Houston and Atlanta. "Common causes of failed emissions tests include faulty oxygen sensors, air flow monitors and catalytic converters."

States may require drivers to spend between $400 and $855 to attempt to fix their own cars before the state finally grants them a waiver to bypass the emissions test, Parlontieri says. Basic maintenance can prevent many of these problems from occurring in the first place.

"The best way to improve the odds of passing an emissions test is to maintain your vehicle. A well-maintained engine is usually a clean engine as far as emissions are concerned," says Parlontieri.

Basic maintenance includes changing the spark plugs, air filter, fuel filter, PCV valve and oil regularly, Parlontieri says. Checking ignition timing and adjusting the carburetor (if you have an older vehicle) can reduce emissions and greatly improve the odds of passing an emissions check.

"It's amazing what following the maintenance schedule in the owner's manual can do for a car when it comes time to take the test," says Parlontieri.

Bad emissions also involve an environmental cost that we pay in the air we breathe.

"When you fail a test, it means your car is creating a lot of pollution," says Parlontieri.

Cost of skipping: Damaged catalytic converter, failed emissions test.

Getting the Best Deal

It's a mistake to delay routine maintenance simply because your budget is tight, Reed says. Instead, he recommends learning more about your car's basic maintenance requirements before you take the car to the shop.

"I don't want to tell anybody to skip anything. Instead, the best way to save money when you're going to get your car serviced is to know exactly what's required, and have that done and nothing more," he says.

People who know little about their cars sometimes are persuaded to undertake repairs that may not be necessary, Reed says.

"I recently took my truck in to be serviced, but before I went, I looked online and saw that the estimated cost should be $152," Reed says. "When I went in, the service person tried to recommend that I get extra work done that would bring the total to $382. I challenged him, and he literally tossed the higher estimate in the trash and told me I was right. He did that because I did the research and had the verification."

Lynn agrees that a car owner can save money simply by knowing what routine maintenance is required on the car and when the maintenance is scheduled.

Another way to stretch your dollars is to find a good, trustworthy mechanic, she says.

"There is a fear factor people have when it comes to taking their car to the shop," says Lynn. "To get over the fear, you've got to find an auto repair shop that you're comfortable with. Get recommendations from friends. Then, ask the mechanic about his or her credentials."

Following your car manufacturer's recommendations for oil changes, tire rotations and routine checkups requires relatively little upfront cost. However, the benefits can pay off in the long run with better fuel economy, an engine that runs well and a longer car life.

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Safety Recall Update – February 8, 2016

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Safety Recall Update – February 8, 2016

By: S.M. Darby

The safety of automobile consumers continues to be a concern as the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) issues further recalls for air bag related issues.

Check out BestRide.com for all of the latest major safety recall updates, automotive news and views, and millions of listings for new and used cars, trucks, vans, and SUVs. There is even a downloadable app that can allow you to keep track of all your favorite vehicles.

NHTSA Campaign Number: 16V061000
Honda Recall Campaign Number(s): JX2, JX3, JX4

Vehicles Affected: Certain 2007-2011 Honda CR-V, 2011-2015 Honda CR-Z, 2010-2014 Honda FCX Clarity, and Honda Insight, 2009-2013 Honda Fit, 2013-2014 Honda Fit EV, 2007-2014 Honda Ridgeline, 2013-2016 Acura ILX, 2013-2014 Acura ILX Hybrid, 2007-2016 Acura RDX, 2005-2012Acura RL, 2009-2014 Acura TL, and 2010-2013 Acura ZDX vehicles. Approximately 2,230,000 vehicles are expected for inclusion in this recall campaign.

Cause:

The affected vehicles are equipped with a dual-stage driver frontal air bag that may be susceptible to moisture intrusion which, over time, could cause the inflator to rupture inadvertently.

Concern:

In the event of a crash necessitating deployment of the driver’s frontal air bag, the inflator could rupture with metal fragments striking the driver or other occupants resulting in serious injury or death.

Correction:

Honda will notify owners with specific instructions for contacting qualified dealers that will replace the inflator, free of charge. Remedy parts are expected to be available in the fall of 2016. Interim notices will be mailed to owners beginning on March 14, 2016. Owners will receive a second notice when remedy parts become available. Owners may contact Honda customer service at 1-888-234-2138.

NHTSA Campaign Number: 16V056000
Honda recall Campaign Number: JW9

Vehicles Affected: Certain 2008-2010 Honda Accord vehicles. Approximately 341,444 vehicles are expected or inclusion in this recall campaign.

Cause:

In the affected vehicles, the air bag control units may corrode and fail.

Concern:

If the air bag control unit fails, the air bags may not deploy in the event of a crash, increasing the risk of occupant injury.

Correction:

Honda will notify owners with detailed instructions for contacting qualified dealers who will replace the air bag control units, free of charge. Parts are expected to be available in the fall of 2016. Interim notifications will be mailed to owners beginning on March 15, 2016, and a second notice will be mailed when remedy parts are available. Owners may contact Honda customer service at 1-888-234-2138.

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Safety Recall Update - February 1, 2016

Written By: S.M. Darby

Monday brings us another batch of National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) recalls. This week, the list of major (over 100,000-units) safety recalls includes well over 1-million units.

How can you determine if your vehicle is under a current NHTSA recall? Grab your vehicle identification number (VIN) and enter it into the NHTSA website. The VIN can be most easily read if you are standing on the outside of the vehicle and looking through the lower left (driver) corner of the windshield. The VIN is stamped (or etched) onto a small metal plate.

NHTSA Campaign Number: 16V029000
Nissan Recall Campaign Number: See Note Below

Vehicles Affected: Certain 2013-2015 Nissan Altima vehicles manufactured from March 6, 2012 through December 31, 2014. Approximately 846,000 vehicles are expected for inclusion in this recall campaign.

Cause:

In the affected vehicles, the secondary hood latch may bind and remain in the unlatched position when the hood is closed.

Concern:

If the primary latch is inadvertently released and the secondary latch is not engaged, the hood could unexpectedly open while driving, increasing the risk of a vehicle crash.

Correction:

These vehicles may have been included in a previous recall, however the previous remedy plan may not have been performed consistently to remove the safety risk. To correct this issue, Nissan will re-notify all affected owners and dealers will replace the hood latch with a new one, free of charge. The recall is expected to begin in mid-February. Owners may contact Nissan customer service at 1-800-647-7261.

Note: This recall supersedes recalls 14V-565 and 15V-116.

NHTSA Campaign Number: 16V036000
Ford Recall Campaign Number: 16S03 (See Note Below)

Vehicles Affected: Certain 2004-2006 Ford Ranger vehicles manufactured from March 24, 2003 through May 4, 2006.

Approximately 361,692 vehicles are expected for inclusion in this recall campaign.

Cause: 

Upon deployment of the driver side frontal air bag, excessive internal pressure may cause the inflator to rupture.

Concern:

In the event of a crash necessitating deployment of the driver’s frontal air bag, the inflator could rupture with metal fragments striking the vehicle occupants potentially resulting in serious injury or death.

Correction:

Ford will notify owners, and dealers will replace the air bag inflators, free of charge. The recall is expected to begin March 7, 2016. Owners may contact Ford customer service at 1-866-436-7332.

Note: This recall supersedes 14V-343 and applies only to Ford Rangers manufactured in North America.

 

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Warming Up Your Car in the Cold Just Harms the Engine

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Warming Up Your Car in the Cold Just Harms the Engine

Written By: Jay Bennett

The long-held notion that you should let your car idle in the cold is only true for carbureted engines.

In the thick of winter, the common wisdom is that when you are gearing up to take your truck out in the cold and snow, you should step outside, start up your engine, and let it idle to warm up. But contrary to popular belief, this does not prolong the life of your engine; in fact, it decreases it by stripping oil away from the engine's cylinders and pistons.

In a nutshell, an internal combustion engine works by using pistons to compress a mixture of air and vaporized fuel within a cylinder. The compressed mixture is then ignited to create a combustion event—a little controlled explosion that powers the engine.

When your engine is cold, the gasoline is less likely to evaporate and create the correct ratio of air and vaporized fuel for combustion. Engines with electronic fuel injection have sensors that compensate for the cold by pumping more gasoline into the mixture. The engine continues to run rich in this way until it heats up to about 40 degrees Fahrenheit.

"That's a problem because you're actually putting extra fuel into the combustion chamber to make it burn and some of it can get onto the cylinder walls," Stephen Ciatti, a mechanical engineer who specializes in combustion engines at the Argonne National Laboratory, told Business Insider. "Gasoline is an outstanding solvent and it can actually wash oil off the walls if you run it in those cold idle conditions for an extended period of time."

The life of components like piston rings and cylinder liners can be significantly reduced by gasoline washing away the lubricating oil, not to mention the extra fuel that is used while the engine runs rich. Driving your car is the fastest way to warm the engine up to 40 degrees so it switches back to a normal fuel to air ratio. Even though warm air generated by the radiator will flow into the cabin after a few minutes, idling does surprisingly little to warm the actual engine. The best thing to do is start the car, take a minute to knock the ice off your windows, and get going.

Of course, hopping into your car and gunning it straightaway will put unnecessary strain on your engine. It takes 5 to 15 minutes for your engine to warm up, so take it nice and easy for the first part of your drive.

Warming up your car before driving is a leftover practice from a time when carbureted engines dominated the roads. Carburetors mix gasoline and air to make vaporized fuel to run an engine, but they don't have sensors that tweak the amount of gasoline when it's cold out. As a result, you have to let older cars warm up before driving or they will stall out. But it's been about 30 years since carbureted engines were common in cars.

So unless you're rolling in a 1970s Chevelle—which we assume isn't your daily driver—bundle up, get into that cold car, and get it moving.

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Mechanic vs. Manual: When's the Right Time to Change Fluids?

Written By: Car Talk

I have a 1998 Toyota Tacoma pickup with 210,000 miles. I change the automatic fluid whenever the transmission "feels" like it needs it, which tends to be about the time I get to the recommended fluid-change interval. I also have a 2005 Lexus ES 330 with 188,000 miles. The owner's manual suggests continuing to change the fluid on a regular basis, regardless of the age of the car. Some mechanics, including the local dealer, suggest NOT changing it: "That could cause more problems." I assume that means scale would be loosened and could clog up the moving parts. What do you suggest -- continuing to change the oil and flush the entire system? You probably can guess that I like keeping vehicles a long time, so proper maintenance is important -- as soon as I figure out what it is!

-- Leroy

 

We've heard one or two stories like that over the years. The story goes like this: A guy has an ancient car, and decides to change the transmission fluid. A few days later, the transmission buys the farm and the car is toast. That's how these "old mechanics tales" get started. 

But here's what really happened: The guy with the 1966 Rambler with 180,000 miles on it noticed that his transmission was misbehaving. And that's why he decided to change the transmission fluid in the first place!

So the transmission was already on its last legs. And when, shortly after the fluid change, the transmission dies, the guy blames it on the fluid change -- instead of the 180,000 miles he had on the car, and the drag racing and donuts his 16-year-old kid does with it every Friday night. 

So we think this theory is nonsense. The purpose of hydraulic transmission fluid is threefold: It transfers the power from the engine to the wheels; it lubricates all the parts of the transmission; and it keeps those parts cool. And for every one of those tasks, new, clean fluid is better than old, crusty fluid with old pieces of broken-off transmission in it. 

So not changing the fluid after a certain mileage is like telling your 96-year-old grandfather, "We're not going to feed you anymore, Pappy, because it might cause more problems."

Good maintenance includes changing the fluids at the mileage intervals that the manufacturer recommends -- no matter how old the car is. And you're more likely to drive it into old age if you drive it gently and follow the maintenance schedule. 

 

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Everything You Need to Know About Brake Fluid

Written By: David Zenlea

You hurtle down the long straight, hit the brake pedal, and feel it sink sickeningly as you fly past the turn-in cone. A day at the track, and maybe your car, ruined. Now's the wrong time to ask: When did you last flush your brake fluid?

The hardworking hydraulic messenger between your foot and the brake pads usually does its job without complaint. In a typical street-driven car, brake fluid lasts for a couple of years. But it has vulnerabilities that can bite on track. First, it chemically changes under the extreme heat generated by repeated hard stops. Just like tires, brake fluid should only go through so many heat cycles. The fluid's also hygroscopic, a fancy way of saying it attracts and absorbs water from the atmosphere. Water lowers the point at which the fluid boils. Boiling fluid releases gas. If there's gas in the brake lines, the pedal will sink to the floor. You have no brakes.

Brake fluid's life span depends on what you drive, how you drive, and even where you drive. A powerful, heavy C63 AMG in hot and humid Florida could cook its fluid in a single track day. A Miata in cool and dry Iowa may last much longer. You certainly want to bleed the brakes every time fluid boils. Even if the reservoir looks clean, what's in the calipers could have broken down and trapped gas bubbles.

Your car and your driving will also determine what to pour. Standard DOT 3 or 4 fluid suffices for many. If you're repeatedly experiencing brake fade, splurge on types with higher wet-boiling points, like ATE Typ 200 (374 °F) or Castrol React SRF Racing (518 degrees). But bear in mind, if fluid's failing, other brake components may not be far behind—in extreme cases, the higher temperatures sustained by the performance fluid can actually finish them off. Stay away from DOT 5 fluids; they have high boiling points but don't mix well with other varieties.

You can't buy Brembos in a bottle, but good fluid that's properly maintained can be just the thing that saves your car or life, even. A brake-fluid flush should therefore be one of your rituals. Suck the old fluid from the reservoir (careful, it's corrosive). Top off with fresh stuff—not from an opened bottle that's been absorbing water on a garage shelf—as you bleed each caliper, starting with the one farthest from the master cylinder. Since you're down there anyway, inspect for uneven pad wear, pitted rotors, and frayed or cracked lines. Better to notice a problem now than at the end of that long straight.

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Winter is Here. Don’t Leave the Car Running In the Garage

Written By: Craig Fitzgerald

On Tuesday, January 5, friends and family of Alex Bedolla held funeral services for the 17-year-old from Emporia, Kansas. Bedolla succumbed to carbon monoxide poisoning after he left his car running inside the garage while working on his car stereo on a bitter cold night.

 

Alex Bedolla’s family said the 17-year-old was unaware of the dangers of carbon monoxide poisoning in an enclosed space when he rolled his new car into the garage to work on the stereo.

Isidro Trujallo, Bedolla’s cousin, told KWCH in Kansas “I don’t think a lot of people know about that my age, our age.” His friend Luis Cervantas said “If I would’ve been him and I was in the garage with the car on, I wouldn’t have really thought about it neither, like … Those things don’t really pop up in your mind.”


Infographic authored by VFIS, offering specialized insurance to emergency service organizations. To view the original post, see the original carbon monoxide prevention infographic.

Carbon monoxide poisoning from automotive emissions used to be widespread and common. In a 1973 medical study, researchers found that just a 90 minute bus ride in Los Angeles was enough to cause irregular EKG results in 40 percent of patients with a pre-existing cardiovascular condition.

Prior to catalytic converters, running a car in an enclosed space like a garage could kill an occupant within 30 minutes, but catalytic converters drastically cut CO emissions. According to the Iowa State University College of Engineering, even a well tuned engine can produce 30,000 ppm of CO into the exhaust system. At the catalytic converter, that concentration drops to less than 1,000 ppm. Depending on the condition of the engine, a car without a catalytic converter typically emits 10,000 to 30,000 ppm of CO.

As a result, we don’t talk as much about carbon monoxide poisoning as we likely did in the 1970s. Here’s what to be aware of:

Defective Exhaust Systems

Exhaust systems that have degraded to the point of allowing exhaust gas to exit before the catalytic converter are especially dangerous. You’d likely hear a hole in the exhaust pipe, but be aware of any ticking noises that indicate a blown exhaust manifold gasket, or a cracked exhaust manifold. Those noises are most evident when the air gets colder.

Open Trunk Lids and Tailgates

If you’ve ever noticed how fresh snow collects around the rear of the car while you’re driving in a snowstorm, you know that air has a way of getting stuck back there while you’re driving. Driving with an open tailgate or trunklid can literally suck exhaust and carbon monoxide into the passenger cabin.

Rust Holes

Holes in the floor, especially when combined with a leaking exhaust system can direct carbon monoxide into the passenger area. If rust has developed to the point where a hole is evident, it might not be a death notice for the car. You can have an auto body professional weld the floor properly to seal up any leaks.

Riding in Truck Beds

This happens less frequently now that seat belt laws are so strict, but it wasn’t unheard of for parents to allow their kids to ride in pickup truck beds. When combined with a topper or a cap, exhaust emissions would flow into the bed area, causing carbon monoxide poisoning.

Running Vehicles in Garages

Even with the garage door open, a car can generate enough carbon monoxide to kill. It’s not only dangerous for the person in the garage. Carbon monoxide can then leak into the house with attached garages.

Carbon monoxide detectors in garages often go off just pulling a car in and out. Iowa State found that warming a car for just two minutes with the door open can raise CO concentrations to 500 ppm, and and measurable concentrations of CO remained in the garage for as long as 10 hours after the car had backed out.

Be safe this winter. Don’t run a car in the garage, and while you’re at it, don’t run a snowblower in an enclosed garage, either. Those engines don’t have catalytic converters and can easily fill a garage with fatal levels of carbon monoxide.

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Safety Recall Update - January 04, 2016

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Safety Recall Update - January 04, 2016

Written By: S.M. Darby

How do you know if your vehicle is currently under a National Highway Traffic Safety Administration(NHTSA) recall? You can wait for a notification letter to arrive by mail but the easiest way is to log onto the NHTSA website and do a VIN search. That’ll tell you for sure. Have your vehicle identification number and production date (located inside the driver door jamb on most models) handy; this information will make it easier to determine whether or not your ride is under a NHTSA recall.

 

NHTSA Campaign Number: 15V323000
Subaru Recall Campaign Number: WQR-53 (see notes below)

Vehicles Affected: Certain 2003-2004 Subaru Baja vehicles manufactured from January 22, 2003 through July 21, 2004, 2004-2005 Subaru Impreza vehicles manufactured from January 28, 2003 through May 31, 2005, 2003-2008 Subaru Legacy vehicles manufactured from January 22, 2003 through May 2, 2008, 2003-2008 Subaru Outback vehicles manufactured from February 18, 2003 through May 5, 2008, and 2005 Saab 9-2x vehicles manufactured from February 11, 2004 through March 17, 2005. Approximately 439,649 vehicles are expected for inclusion in this recall campaign.

Cause:

The affected vehicles are equipped with a passenger side frontal air bag that may be susceptible to moisture intrusion which, over time, could cause the inflator to rupture upon deployment.

Concern:

In the event of a motor vehicle crash necessitating deployment of the passenger’s frontal air bag, the inflator could rupture with metal fragments striking the vehicle occupants potentially resulting in serious injury or death.

Correction:

Subaru and General Motors will notify vehicle owners with specific instructions for contacting qualified dealers that will replace the passenger air bag inflator, free of charge. The Subaru recall began on June 17, 2015. Owners may contact Subaru customer service at 1-800-782-2783. The Saab recall began on July 27, 2015. Owners of Saab vehicles may call 1-800-955-9007.

Note: The recall completely supersedes recall 14V-399 (WQL-48) and partially supersedes recall 14V-763 (WQP-51) in that model year 2004 through 2005 Subaru Impreza and model year 2005 Saab 9-2x vehicles are now only part of this campaign. Note: On December 18, 2015 Subaru informed NHTSA of an expansion of this recall to include certain model year 2003-2004 Subaru Baja, 2003-2008 Subaru Legacy and 2003-2008 Subaru Outback vehicles.

NHTSA Campaign Number: 15V370000
Honda Recall Campaign Number: JS1 and JS2 (see note below)

Vehicles Affected: Certain 2001-2005 Honda Civic vehicles manufactured from March 21, 2000 through January 20, 2005, 2001-2004 Honda Civic GX vehicles manufactured from June 14, 2000 through August 19, 2004, 2003-2005 Honda Civic Hybrid vehicles manufactured from February 24, 2002 through January 18, 2005, 2003-2007 Honda Accord vehicles manufactured from February 21, 2002 through August 28, 2007, 2002-2004 Honda CR-V vehicles, 2002-2003 Honda Odyssey vehicles manufactured from June 19, 2001 through July 12, 2003, 2003 Acura MDX vehicles manufactured from September 19, 2002 through June 19, 2003, 2003 Honda Element vehicles manufactured from June 25, 2002 through July 31, 2003, and 2003 Honda Pilot vehicles manufactured from November 26, 2001 through August 21, 2003. Approximately 3,399,384 vehicles are expected for inclusion in this recall campaign.

Cause:

The affected vehicles have a passenger side frontal air bag that may be susceptible to moisture intrusion which, over time, could cause the inflator to rupture upon deployment.

Concern:

In the event of a motor vehicle crash necessitating deployment of the passenger’s frontal air bag, the inflator could rupture with metal fragments striking the passenger seat occupant or other occupants possibly causing serious injury or death.

Correction:

Honda will notify owners wit detailed instructions on how to contact qualified dealers that will replace the passenger air bag inflator, free of charge. The recall began on July 1, 2015. Owners may contact Honda customer service at 1-888-234-2138.

Note: Vehicles that have already received a replacement passenger air bag inflator as part of the recall remedy for an earlier campaign such as 14V353 or 14V700 (Honda recall numbers S95, JH6, JH7, JH8, JH9, JJ0, JJ1, JJ2, JJ6, JM5 and JM6) are not included in this recall. However, this recall does supersede 13V132 and 14V349.

Note: On December 18, 2015 Honda informed NHTSA of an expansion of this recall to include certain model year 2004 Honda CR-V vehicles in addition to additional model year 2003 CR-V vehicles.

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10 Tips for Getting Home Safely this New Year’s Eve

Written by: Craig Fitzgerald

According to NHTSA, with the exception of the Fourth of July, New Year’s Eve is the most dangerous driving holiday. Here’s how to avoid becoming a statistic.

 

According to NHTSA, an average of 36 fatalities occurred on the road each day in the United States between 2001 and 2005, as the result of an alcohol impaired driver. That number jumped to 45 per day during the three-day period around Christmas those years, and then soared to 54 per day over New Year’s holiday.

Consuming alcohol is a part of New Year’s Eve. But it doesn’t mean you should be climbing into the car to drive home.

We’ve got a few suggestions on how to celebrate without becoming a statistic:

Hire a Designated Driver

In 76 cities across the United States, BeMyDD offers designated driver services through a mobile app. You can hire drivers by the hour, order pickup services, or even have designated drivers pick up multiple guests from your event, all through the company’s smartphone app. The interesting part is that the driver actually uses your car, so there’s no having to go retrieve it after a night of revelry, and there’s no turf war between Uber drivers and cabbies.

Grab a Lyft

Forget whatever controversy exists between Uber, Lyft and the traditional cab companies. They’re a relatively inexpensive, reliable way to get yourself home. Download the app, input your credit card info, and you’re good to go. We’ve become devotees over the last few years.

Be a Designated Driver, Get Free Stuff

The California Office of Traffic Safety built the DDVIP app as a means for bars and restaurants to offer incentives to designated drivers year round, but especially on New Year’s Eve. As you head out to cart your drunk friends around, you can use the app to find bars and restaurants that offer designated drivers exclusive rewards, discounts and special non-alcoholic drinks. If it all goes haywire and you find yourself unable to resist the temptation, the app also allows you to hail an Uber, Lyft or Curb driver all from one place.

Call the Cops

Across the country, police departments have taken the bull by the horns to get people home safely. Perhaps the most aggressive initiative is the Evesham (NJ) Saving Lives Program, which launched last fall as a shuttle service. Evesham PD has now partnered with Uber, and the program spread to nearby Voorhees. The goal of the program is to “eradicate DWI/DUI offenses by providing an alternative to safely get home.” It appears to be working. Chief Christopher Crew noted that “As a result of our organization’s unwavering commitment in DWI/DUI detection and apprehension efforts, our township has investigated zero alcohol related crash fatalities since 2009.”

Check Yourself

In the last year, Alcohoot released an affordable, compact breathalyzer that measures your blood alcohol content with the help of your smartphone. For $99, the device attaches to your phone and you don’t have to do the inaccurate math on your weight and your alcohol consumption.

Take Public Transportation

Despite all the issues last winter in Boston, public transportation is a viable option in most American cities, whether it’s by train, boat, subway or bus. Most major metropolises offer some kind of free or reduced late night service on public transportation during New Year’s Eve.

Get a Free Ride

Private businesses, public agencies, advocacy groups and even beer brewers in many areas across the country are joining forces to offer free rides on New Year’s Eve. In Minnesota, for example, beer distributor J.J. Taylor teamed up with Miller Lite to offer free rides on the Metro Transit system this year.

Call a Lawyer

Usually, calling an attorney is a reaction to getting yourself in trouble, but several personal injury firms are proactively trying to keep revelers out of trouble. Sweeney Merrigan Law in Boston asks pre-partiers to sign an online pledge to get $15 worth of free Lyft credit for New Year’s eve. Berg Injury Lawyers in Alameda, California offers a free ride up to $35 with its Safe and Sober Free Cab Home program.

Call AAA

In about 20 regions across the country, AAA offers some kind of assistance to get you home this New Year’s Eve. The services aren’t available everywhere, so understand what the limitations are before you head out.

 

Listen to Kamen Rider

This guy rides around Fukuoka Prefecture, Japan, dressed as a wildly popular Japanese Superhero named Kamen Rider, warning people of the dangers of drunk driving. Not only is he attracting attention and supporting a worthy cause, he’s doing it in character. Whenever he stops, he strikes a pose right there on his bike in the middle of the road.

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Safety First! For that Holiday Road Trip

Do your Holiday travels, the Ride-Way!

It's that time of year again, and Uncle Joe has invited the family back to his log cabin down the back alley, deep in the woods. Or even if you're just going across town, you want to make sure that you and your family will make a safe trip there and back.

 Ride-Way Auto is always concerned for your safety, and that's why we've prepared tips and items that should accompany you on your journey: 

  • Ice scraper
  • Tow rope
  • Blankets
  • Flashlights
  • A bag of sand or rock salt
  • First aid kit
  • Change for toll roads
  • Water
  • Snacks

If you're not entirely sure whether your car is in top notch shape for a winter drive, Ride-Way's got you covered! 

Drive with the confidence and peace of mind your family deserves, that's the Ride-Way Difference!

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Much More Than Just Regular Maintenance!

People on tight budgets are often tempted to skip some routine car maintenance services, or at least to delay an appointment with the auto shop.

However, poorly maintained vehicles cause thousands of wrecks each year. The bill for accidents resulting from unperformed vehicle maintenance tops $2 billion a year, according to a 2004 study by Car Care Council, an advocacy group based in Bethesda, Md.

Even if you are lucky enough to avoid a crash, putting off maintenance is likely to reduce your car's life span.

"If you don't maintain your car, you're taking a vehicle that might have been driven for 200,000 miles over its life, and you're knocking it down to maybe 150,000 miles," says Philip Reed, senior consumer advice editor at Edmunds.com.

The true cost of not maintaining your vehicle can include hefty repair bills for bad brakes, failed emissions tests and maybe even a failed engine. Following is a list of some common maintenance requirements for automobiles and the costly problems that can occur if they aren't completed.

1. Consistent oil changes 

Regular oil changes help keep your engine clean and lubricated, says Deanna Sclar, author of "Auto Repair for Dummies."

"Oil cuts down on the friction that can literally wear away the parts of the engine," she says. "One of the most important maintenance-related things you can do is change your oil frequently."

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